SYLLABUS
Plans for a five week trick
course consisting of one hour session a week. General break down of each class
would involve me first introducing two Foundation Tricks. This is a simple
trick which can become more complicated tricks in the future when mastered
(list of foundation tricks is outlined below). Introduction and practice of the
foundation trick would take up approximately the first 30-45 minutes of class. The
last 30-15 minutes would be more free form.
On the first day of class students would
give me a list of one or two tricks they are really interested in teaching
their dog and we would help them through getting those tricks down pat during
the second half of class. The last day of class after introducing the
foundation trick we’ll have a little recital where the class can show off what
they’ve learned. The focus of the class is not them mastering all of these
tricks in the time allotted, but giving students the tools to teach all or some
of them on their own.
The first day of class will be a
little different as it will involve explaining the difference between shaping
and luring and why they are both essential tools in teaching tricks. It will
also involve explaining the proper use of a clicker and how it’s used in
shaping. Teaching how one adds a verbal to tricks as well as how to change the
name for a particular trick. As well as emphasizing short training sessions and
the importance of doing your homework. Then I will introduce the simplest
Foundation Tricks afterwards they’ll let me know which one or two tricks they
want to master by the end of the course.
FOUNDATION TRICKS
1)
SPIN
How it’s taught: Lure the dog in a
circle. Quickly eliminate food lure from hand. Slowly reduce hand movement. Add
a verbal. (Can also be free shaped if you have a lot of time on your hands :)
)
What this trick becomes: Nothing really,
other than a way to teach directionals in agility I guess. But it’s a really
easy trick to start off with and most dogs learn it quickly. Also a good way to
explain how to use luring effectively.
2)
NOSE
TOUCH / NOSE TARGET
How
it’s taught: Put hand behind back for a few seconds and then introduce it
to dog as a novel object. When dog goes to sniff the hand mark with a ‘yes’ or a click. Remember to fed on the
extended hand. Introduce a target the same way.
What
this trick becomes: A great beginner trick to introduce people to the
concept of shaping. It becomes, ring a bell; close a drawer or cabinet (for
larger dogs); pick a certain object (Like in the shell game); and it’s the beginning
of shaping a dog to hold something in its mouth.
3)
SHAKE
/ PAW TARGET
How
it’s taught: Hold food in a closed fist. Encourage the dog to get the food.
When in frustration he/she paws at the hand in order to get the food mark and
reward (this may be a struggle for dogs with stellar it’s your choice). To add
target have a dog that is already comfortable with shake. Add a target to your
hand and ask for shake; mark and reward for pawing at target. Slowly remove
target from your hand. Alternatively; us a sealed Tupperware container filled
with food. When dog paws at the container to get the food, mark and reward out
of hand.
What
this trick becomes: Shake, High Five, Wave, Chorus line Kicks, Pressing a
button, Turning on a light (Bigger dogs), Being Embarrassed, Holding a toy in
one paw (bigger dogs), Drumming, Playing the piano, Cross Your Paws, perch
work, all four feet in a dish
4)
JUMP
THROUGH A HOOP
How
it’s taught: Put hula hoop on the ground and lure dog trough hoop. Slowly
raise hoop. Add a verbal command and eliminate lure.
What
this trick becomes: Jump through my legs (little dogs), jump over a baton,
Jump through my arms (Which can become jump into my arms), Jump over my
outstretched arms (big dogs), Jump over another dog, Jump up in the air on
command, Jump through a rolling hoop, Pick a hoop up on the ground and go
through it.
5)
ROLL
OVER
How
it’s taught: Ask the dog to down. Slowly use the food as a lure to turn its
head over its shoulder. Reward the head turn several times. Then lure further
and reward any shifting of weight. Increase criteria on the shifting of weight
until you can get the dog to lie on its side. Usually at this point it goes
more quickly into fully rolling over. Some dogs get this very quickly others
need to go slow.
What the trick
becomes: Play dead, roll yourself in a blanket, break dance
6)
GO TO
PLACE
How
it’s taught: Place a towel on the floor and wait for the dog to show
interest in the towel. When they look at sniff, or step towards the towel mark
and reward. After doing this several times wait for the dog to place one foot
on the towel. Then increase criteria until all four paws are on the towel. Then
increase distance from the towel till the dog can be sent there. And a position
(such as a down) is desired and then a cue.
What
the trick becomes: Go to a particular place marked on the ground is something
desired by most dogs used in film and television. It is also a great way to
gain distance on behaviors. Used to teach a send out in obedience, jump on a
stool or pedestal, get into a suitcase.
7)
SIT
PRETTY
How
it’s taught: Ask dog to sit and then lure into position. Use lure to
maintain dogs sitting position. Add duration, remove lure.
What
the trick becomes: Stand Tall, Dog Calisthenics, Jump up and Close a Door,
Pray (The jump up with both paws part), Hop on Hind Legs, Hug toy to Chest
8)
BACK
UP
How
it’s taught: Sit on the floor (Or in a chair if you have a larger dog) with
your legs stretched into a V. Click and feed the dog very close in toward our
belly button. Then wait. Most dogs will take a step backwards. Click and reward
the step back. Make sure to reward close into the body once again. Repeat
several times until the dog understands what’s being rewarded. Then increase
criteria to more steps back. When dog reaches about four or five steps
backwards. Stop rewarding closes into the body and begin tossing the treats
behind the dog (If large enough try to bowl the treats between the dogs legs.
After dog has reached desired distance, add a word. Slowly move to standing
position and proof.Also can be taught by using two crates to create a shoot if dog is struggling.
What
the trick becomes: Lift your hind foot, Hand Stand, Reverse heeling,
Backward figure 8s between legs, Spin backward in a circle, Spin backward in a
circle around handler.
9)
TAKE/
HOLD/ OUT/ RETRIEVE
How
it’s taught: If dog has a natural retrieve add cue and food reward, work on
diversifying objects used. Then shorten the distance object needs to be thrown
to get desired interest. Move to simply dropping object on the floor, placing
object on the floor with hand then handing the dog object. If dog does not have
a natural retrieve shape mouthing at a dowel. Entice dog to nose touch
object. Reward this several times then
withhold reinforcement. When dog mouths object in frustration or opens mouth at
all click and reward. If dog is struggling with dowel, present more enticing
object such as a bully stick. Click and reward mouthing with higher value
treats.
What
this trick becomes: Carry my purse, put away toys, basketball, hold a sign,
put one food bowl into another, open the fridge to get a beer, walk another
dog, paint, pass a note, put money in a
bank, hold a flag
10) HEAD
DOWN
How
it’s taught: Put dog into a down and lure the head down and outstretched so
the chin touches the ground. Click and treat (I free shaped this so I will also
discuss how to do that).
What
this trick becomes: Shake your head yes, the foundations of how to teach
shake your head no, the head down portion of say your prayers, and at the end
of rolling yourself in a blanket.
What do you guys think? Sound like a class you'd want to take? :)
